Wednesday, April 20, 2011

5. Helmut Newton - Tenarra

Helmut Newton was a German born fashion photographer. His interest in photography started when he bought his first camera at age 12. He worked for a German photographer known as Yva from 1936 but was forced into a concentration camp in 1938 due to his Jewish decent. He left Germany soon after and found himself working as a reporter for the Straits times and as a portrait photographer.

Newton was sent to Australia by the British authorities in 1940 and in 1946, post war, set up his studio and worked as a Fashion and theater photographer. His first exhibition was with Wolfgang Seivers in 1953. He began a partnership with Henry Talbot which would continue on after he left for London.

Due to his growing reputation he landed a contract with the British Vogue. Talbot continued with the business affairs. Newton left London for Paris before the end of his 12 month contract where he continued his work with magazines. Throughout this time he shaped himself an iconic style that often featured erotic and sado-masochistic subtexts. His original works went on to be sold for over $20,000.

Monday, April 4, 2011

1. Natalie Kiryk - SASS & BIDE

Sass & Bide is an Australian fashion label, internationally acclaimed and recognized for its quirkiness and over the top styling. It was founded by Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton in 1999. The label began life as a stall on London's Portobello Road, then rose to fashion heights with their now famous denim designs.

The label launched with innovative and unique denim designs. Within two years, the collection expanded into seasonal ready-to-wear. The Sass & Bide style is inspired by the obscure & the beautiful - a unique style for women who appreciate a quirky yet ultimately sexy aesthetic.
Sarah-Jane and Heidi set out to design the type of clothes they wanted to wear. A 'great fitting jean that sits super low and is super sexy' was created with stretch denim and a 2-inch zip. An unusually strong word-of-mouth sparked a demand for the particular pair of jeans.

Today, the Sass & Bide range offers not only innovative new shapes and detailing in denim, it also features an extensive and luxurious fashion range which showcases twice a year on the runway at New York Fashion Week. Their famous and highly-coveted denim collections also feature body hugging jackets, play suits, skirts, dresses and mini skirts. Vests, bibs and harnesses along with innovative belts and accessories, grand embellishments such as sequins, diamantes, studs, feathers and much more are setting the trends.
On March 8, Sass and Bide received the Veuve Clicquot Business Award 2010.

Sandra Suy -Tom Walgers

Sandra Suy (1977) Barcelona first trained as a fashion designer before becoming a renowned fashion illustrator noted for the balance, simplicity and the expressive quality of her work.

Her images are of men and women, portraits and figures and are composed of clean, expressive lines often over organic textures and washes, simple refined palettes and usually a point of emphasis where she introduces fine detail. Often there is a contrast between the weight of the line or the texture of the fill or wash.

Sandra makes use of multiple mediums and notably combines analogue methods with digital tools rather than eschewing one for the other.
Making use of both methods, Sandra’s restraint and simplicity of composition distinguishes her from other illustrators in a time digital saturation.
She uses digital techniques, often a watercolour wash or an organic texture, to augment or complement the figure rather than dominate the image.Her application of organic layers through a digital process achieves a clean and controlled rendering without limiting the expressive quality of the medium. The result is a striking balance which makes sense considering her ambitions as an illustrator revolve around remaining relevant “try[ing] to make illustrations that will not perish in time; something you can look at in 10 years and will not seem passé, “out of step.”

In determining the quality of an illustration Sandra refers to the image’s ‘aura’. This is significant insofar as the carefully defined subject of each image is expertly expressed through her method.

Matisse - Tom Walgers

French artist Henri Matisse (1869 -1954) was commissioned to create the costumes for the Russian Ballet's version of 'The Nightingale' by Igor Stravinksky. A departure from art, costume design provides an interesting link between Matisse's early fig ratite fine art in a more traditional sense and the collage and abstraction that occupied him in his later years. Famed for his bold and ingenious use of colour, simplicity of composition, and 'flat' aesthetic it would seem a natural movement between art and design, and interestingly in much of Matisse's figurative work there is a preoccupation with design in particular attention to textiles, patterns, furniture and clothing.

The costumes are abstract consisting of a heavy textile robe and head-dress with geometric patterns said to represent the deer native to the play. The pattern features the interest Matisse had in Asian minimalism and printmaking.