Gaultier’s first collection was released in1976 and his
characteristics irrevert style date from 1981, risqué collaborations like Madonna’s infamous cone-shaped bra for the 1990 blond ambition tour gave the designer his “enfant terrible” reputation. Many of his following collections have mainly been based on street wear, focusing more on popular culture.
In addition to the clothes now licensed by Aeffe and including menswear, Gaultier created a successful fragrance line, packaged in his signature torso-shaped bottles. In 1991, Hermes bought 35% of Gualtier's company, which gave the brand enough capital to open up more stores in East Asia. In 2004 Hermes hired him as head women’s wear designer for the label.